The Galapagos Islands

My wife and I travelled to the Galapagos Islands last week on a 5 day Intrepid Travel tour of the south eastern group. In one word, simply awesome. (or is that 2 words?)

We travelled from Quito aboard AeroGal, and landed at Isla Baltra which has the main airport but is 45 minutes by bus, boat, and bus from the main setting out place of Santa Rosa on the Island of Santa Cruz. It did not take long for us to taste our first sights of Galapagos fauna, as disembarking the plane we spotted a Land Iguana basking in the sun on the edge of the runway.

After getting our beds allocated on the Spondylus, we were met by the Naturalist, who took us on our first ‘dry landing’ tour of a Giant Land Tortoise farm about 30 minutes by bus.

The ‘farm’ in actual fact was a traditional farm for cattle, but it was used as a home by the Tortoises because of its location inland. So, the cows shared the land with the turtles, and the owners of the farm thought some tourists might want to see them. Damn right!

I had always thought the Land Tortoises were actually sea turtles that just happened to like living on the land as well, but no, these turtles came out of the see thousands of years ago and have not gone back. The oldest one at the farm was about 150 years old.

Day 2 we had to skip Floreana due to a yacht malfunction but spent the time day tripping close to Santa Rosa where we snorkeled with Sea Lions and visited one of the most beautiful beaches I have seen.

Up there with Whitsunday, I'm afraid to say.

The Iguanas were litterally covering the rocks on the point and several were basking in the sun and walking along the beach like we weren’t even there.

Count the iguanas. (less than 60 and you need your eyes tested!)

Day 3 we sailed to Isla Esanola and had a ‘dry landing’ and went for a walk around the islands to view many many more Land Iguanas and the amazing Blue Footed Booby.

They were nesting at the time and we saw many couples making their nests, while there were others who were on their eggs and even saw a few very young hatchlings.

Unfortunately, any more that one chick results in the weakest being kicked out of the nest and dies. Only one can survive.

Incredibly, the Boobies nest right on the walking trail, and visitors have to walk around them to get from A to B. The Boobies just sit there and watch you go past.

Another incredible thing is that the Boobies share this space with the Marine Iguanas, who come in very close contact with them.

The iguanas are vegetarian and eat green algae from the rocks at water level, so they and the Boobies live in harmony.

Iguanas like Boobies. Who would have thought?

:-)

Day 4 we sailed to Isla Santa Fe and visited a Sean Lion colony.

This was an incredible experience.

There were hundreds of Sea Lions basking on the most amazing fluffy white sandy beach with numerous pups all playing together.

The thing that really struck me about the Sea Lions is their affection for each other.

They were literally cuddling together on the beach enjoying each other’s warmth.

After more snorkeling with a mix of temperate and tropical fish including a flock of White Spotted Eagle Rays and more Sean Lions, we had sun set drinks on the deck to watch a fantastic sun set.

Day 5 we sailed to Isla Seymour for a dry landing to view the Land Iguanas which were far more timid than the Marine Iguanas and it was difficult to get closer than a couple of meters.

After that it was back to land and the airport and out flight back to Quito.

Of all the travelling I’ve done this rates up there with visiting the Mountain Gorillas in Rwanda for the most amazing nature based experience. I always rate diving with fishes as the most special nature experience I can have, but swimming and lazing in the sun with the Galapagos Sea Lions and getting so up close with the Giant Tortoises, and the Boobies, was very special.

Now, we have to go back to go diving with the Hammerheads and Whale Sharks scheduled for June.